Showing posts with label Dwight Bonney. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dwight Bonney. Show all posts

Sunday, March 5, 2023

Recapping a PAL Amiga 1000

 Hi Again,

Since I suspected I had issues with reliable and stable power, I took the plunge to recap my PAL Amiga 1000 (no piggyback), and pleased to say it was a great success!

CLK (Pin 15) Before Recapping
Max 3.48V
Mean 1.64V

CLK (Pin 15) After Recapping
Max now 3.6V (+0.12V)
Mean 1.72V (+0.08V)

Interesting there appears to also be a small speed bump from 7.042MHz to the correct 7.09MHz, and a Period speed up of 1ns - although this is more likely to be nothing to really note, maybe just coincidence.

ECLK (Pin 20) before recapping
Mean 1.92V
Max 5.28V

 
ECLK (Pin 20) AFTER recapping
Mean now 2V (+0.08V)
Max now 5.52V (+0.24V)



I started with a purchase of an Amiga 1000 cap kit from Retro Rewind which I later found was really for an NTSC Amiga 1000 with piggyback.  The only difference was that I needed to purchase an extra 220uF electrolytic capacitor, which I purchased from Mouser.

16YXM220MEFR8X11.5
Rubycon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors  

The Retro Rewind Cap Kit says it comes with:

Cap   -  Value - Rating - Type

C48   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C49   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C50   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C63   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C64   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C65   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C66   -  22uf  -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C78   -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C79   -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C80   -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C175  -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C93   -  220uf -  16v   - Radial

C95   -  470uf -  16v   - Radial


(Daughterboard)

C10   -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)

C11   -  100uf -  16v   - Radial (my order came with 25V)



There was a delay with the Retro Rewind order, and when I enquired about the difference in Cap values between my mainboard and from the caps supplied, I never received a reply.  Also note the caps provided by Retro Rewind were mostly 25V rather than the 16V on the original board - but this won't really matter and is a safe replacement.

OK on to the replacing...

I started with the 470uF cap - the biggest one on the board, and using a desoldering gun made the job very easy.  I use a Micron T2065 which I picked up from eBay for $240AUD in 2023.  I am really happy with, it does everything I need and I no longer lift solder pads as much as I used too.





So, starting with he 470uF cap, the ESR on my 470uF should be below 0.18 (adjusted for 16V as the meter uses 25V for everything), and was showing .27 - the meter said good if below 330uF...hmmm, found a cap out of spec, excellent!!

uh oh, should be below 0.18, this cap is not good!


Yippee!  First cap in!


The 22uF caps were really easy to remove and replace, but the 100uF and 220uF caps were absolute mongrels to remove!!  The 100 and 220's I tried adding solder, lots of flux, solder wick, hot air gun, back to the desolder gun, and finally managed to wiggle them out with he ordering iron held on one side!  However two of the caps I ended up snipping from the top side (very carefully) and then using long nose pliers and the soldering iron, managed to eventually pull the lead through...phew!  That was 8 hours in total that I don't really want to repeat anytime soon!

22uF caps all removed

Using LOTS of flux to remove the 100uF caps 

New caps in!

OK, could have used blu-tack to keep the 22uF caps  flush with the board, but sticking up a little bit is OK

100uF caps in, phew!  That was 4+ hours I will never get back :)

The 220uF caps were proving near impossible, I would not recommend this - but I snipe the legs as high to the cap as I could, and then added heat to the component side of the board which allowed me to pull the lead out quite easily with long-nose pliers.  Im sure there is a more professional way to do this!

220uF caps gone!  Holes ready for the new caps.

It took me so long to get these suckers out, her sis mother pic from the side :)


It is a thing of beauty!  All new caps - note the new caps are physically much smaller.  Proof technology continues to improve in the last 37 years!

Another photo of all the caps in, from the top.   It was easy, but  be patient!

White marks are from the Clea-up, they won't hurt the board.

 
After using so much flux and cleaning the board with LOTS of Isopropyl, I was almost ready to put everything back together.  The Isopropyl also reacted a little with the PCB protector covering the board, creating white residue on the board.

After cleaning the board 3 times with a lot more Isopropyl, I was able to use a can of compressed air to blow away as much of the white residue that I could, there was a still. little around component solder points, but it won't hurt or degrade the board over time as far as I could tell and read across the net, so I left tit to thoroughly dry for about 2 hours and then plugged it all back in!

I was worried It was going to blow up after a recent power supply re-capping fail :). But my Amiga 1000 came back to life first time, perfect and has been playing mods for the past 2 hours without a hiccup, yay!!



Catch you again soon!  Thanks for reading!



Wednesday, December 28, 2022

Amiga 1000 Parceiro making images of your SDCard & compatibility

 G'day everyone, this blog is my journey and experience with purchasing and restoring my favourite computer of all time, the Amiga 1000, and hopefully will help other people in their journey too.  My experience would see parts delivered from 9 different countries across the globe, and has been 4 months in the making.

Disclaimer: There is no sponsorship or payment in kind, and all comments are my own experience / opinions unless stated otherwise.  I am a private individual member of the public, I am not a business, nor am I representing any business.  This blog is not to be taken or used as advice or instruction, replicate at your own risk.  I have destroyed 1 x accelerators, 1 x GOTEK drive, and possibly 1 x Amiga 1000 (at time of writing) in my adventure so far 😅



Making backups with 'dd' on Mac OSX:

The Parceiro works really well with most SD Cards, but I have found the Sandisk Extreme and Extreme Pro have problems.  My advice is don't get fancy, and price is not a good indicator of compatibility (or performance).  My Parceiro came with a Gigastone 32GB card which I immediately made a backup of, and in my daily use now I am using a 32GB Sandisk Ultra Sd Card.

To make a backup on Mac with OSX I use the built-in terminal command dd.  If terminal scares you, try BalenaEtcher, it's free and easy to use from the GUI (Balenaetcher is on Mac and PC).

To use dd:

Connect the Sd Card to your Mac, and open a terminal window.

type 'diskutil list'

and look for the SD card you just inserted.  You are looking for the same size, maybe the manufacturer name, and a volume name as the card you just inserted.  The volume you will see for the Parceiro is the Windows FAT32 volume named 'XFER'.  


This is the volume you can use to swap files easily between you Mac/PC and the Amiga.

The important bit you are looking for, is what disk number this is.  Avoid assuming it is always the same disk number, it won't always be!  In my example, it is disk4.  Ignore the disk4s1, we only need the disk4 identifier.

To take an image, we need to first unmount the disk, using the diskutil command again:

diskutil unmountdisk /dev/disk4

You will get a message "Unmount of all volumes on disk4 was successful" and be returned to the terminal prompt again.

The next command must be run as administrator or it won't work, so we use sudo with dd:

sudo dd if=/dev/disk4 of=parceiro.img bs=512 status=progress

Breaking this down:

sudo - means run the next command with admin privileges

dd - is the linux command to take and restore images.  It can also do a lot more, but we only need an image.

if=/dev/disk4 - if stands for "input file" and we point this at the disk we identified with the diskutil command earlier.  your disk may not be disk4 remember, that's just the disk in my example.

of=parceiro.img - of stands for "output file", you can call this whatever you want, in my example I am calling this 'Parceiro.img'.

bs=512 - sets the block size to 512 bytes, which is how the parceiro has been set up.  This is the default for dd, but I like to specify it, just in case the default changes in the future.  You could omit this if you like.

status=progress - shows the read/write progress as the dd command runs.  Without this, the terminal window appears to be doing nothing, I like to see it is still working.

Note: Depending on the SD Card and reader you are using, this process could take from a few minutes, to a few hours!!  Writes are a lot slower than reads.

Once completed, you have an image/backup of all the Amiga and the FAT partition that you can go back to.  I have lost count of how many times I've re-flashed my SD Cards while playing around with installs.

To write an image back to the SDCard, the first part of the instructions are the same:

Connect the SD Card to your Mac, and open a terminal window.

type 'diskutil list'

and look for the SD card you just inserted.  You are looking for the same size, maybe the manufacturer name, and a volume on the card.  The volume you will see for the Parceiro is the Windows FAT32 volume named 'XFER'.  


This is the volume you can use to swap files easily between you Mac/PC and the Amiga.

The important bit you are looking for, is what disk number this is.  Avoid assuming it is always the same disk number, it won't always be!  In my example, it is disk4.  Ignore the disk4s1, we only need the disk4 identifier.

To take an image, we need to first unmount the disk, using the diskutil command again:

diskutil unmountdisk /dev/disk4

You will get a message "Unmount of all volumes on disk4 was successful" and be returned to the terminal prompt again.

now type:

sudo dd if=parceiro.img of=/dev/disk4 bs=512 status=progress

We just swap the IF and OF options!

Note in both examples, the Parceiro.img file will be created in whatever directory you are currently in.  You may want to change to your downloads folder before running these commands, to make the image file easy to find:

cd /downloads

will take you to your Downloads folder in Mac OSX.

final note: all commands are case-sensitive, just like on most *nix systems.  'downloads' is different to 'Downloads'.

Because the Parceiro image is actually just 16GB, you can write the image back to a 16GB SD-Card, rather than a 32GB SD-Card.  the 'dd' command will stop when it runs out of blocks to write too, but your image will be perfectly in tact.  Or if you wanton write just the data portion to an image, take David's advice (this is for the SD Card as supplied, if you have modified your card, this may not work):

 "...the actual image of the SD is 15,978,201,088 bytes in size, or 31,207,424 512-byte blocks in size.  So if you ever want to just save the non-empty parts of the drive, just do:

dd if=<the device reading from> of=<the file writing to> count=31207424 status=progress" 

- David Dunklee 2022

Why would you do this?  Well, depending what you read online, it might be good to only write the data you need, and then, the firmware controller on the card knows it can use all the unwritten space for moving bad blocks if it finds them.  You can write a 16GB image to a 32GB or even larger card, and leave all the unformatted space to the firmware controller and/or for your own use later.

At least on SSD disks that is how it works.  Note the firmware controller knows nothing about the Operating system or what partitions have or have not been created, nor what is empty space or not - it only knows where it has written data to a block, and and where it has not yet written data to a given block. 

If the firmware controller has written data, even NULL or 0's to a block, then the firmware controller considers it used.  This is also why you only ever want to use a Quick Format on a CF or SD-Card, never a low-level or full format!!

How to refresh the firmware controller is something I have not looked into, maybe SD Card Formatter from the SD Association does this for us?  It is free too!  You can also use this tool on CF Cards.


Tips on creating a new partition scheme:

Image courtesy of https://www.amigalove.com/viewtopic.php?t=1823

I like this image as it describes easily what we are trying to do - get an MBR and an RDB bootstrap on the same drive, and then create both Amiga and FAT partitions.  The FAT partition can be read and written on a Mac or PC, but the Amiga partitions will be invisible to the Mac/PC.  Your Amiga will be able to read and write to both eh Amiga RDB and the PC/Mac FAT partition.  It is the best combination.

As Mr Dunklee has pointed out, the Amiga was way ahead of its time in allowing the RDB bootstrap to sit anywhere on the drive, rather than fixed at block 0 like MBR.  Just another Amiga innovation.

You must use SDToolBox that came with your Parceiro, do NOT use HDToolBox or HDInstall, if for no other reason then, these cannot create a dual MBR and RDB boot record on the same disk - it's one or the other!!

And remember, once you save the changes to SD, you will most likely lose all data on the drive!

So why do it?  If you want to setup a new card from scratch and don't want to use an image (see 'dd' above).  You may want to create the partitions and ensure you have tick in create MBR to make your own disk.

SDToolBox has a very handy feature that allows you to save a partition structure to a file.  You can then take this file, and using 'dd' (see above), write it as an image to a new card/disk.  Pop the new card/disk into an Amiga, format it and you have a new drive ready, with both RDB and MBR bootstraps! 

SDToolbox has another special feature where you can set a partition to only be visible when the right OS has booted (i.e. only show when using OS1.3, or only show when OS3.1 has booted etc).  Way more powerful than HDToolbox!

"So the top mount and boot checkmarks are the typical guides to tell the Amiga if you want the volume Mounted and/or bootable.

I added below that an additional mount and boot checkmark.  These checkmarks override the above checkmarks if the OS version matches.

In this way you can make the volume visible under certain conditions.

View SD0, SD1, and SD2 and you'll see that SD0 will only mount and be visible and bootable in 1.3, likewise SD1 is only viewable/bootable in 2.1.  See?" - David Dunklee 2022

At the end of the day, it is much easier to take an image of the SD Card supplied with your Parceiro, and edit that.  David has already done so much of the heavy lifting - why torture yourself?

SD-Card Compatibility:

Better start with a definition of MB and Mb etc:

MB = MegaBytes
Mb = Megabits
1 Byte = 8 bits
1 Megabit = 0.125MB/sec when transferring data.  

All the SD Cards and CF Cards I have state their speed in MB.  However, real life performance is always a lot less (typically, I have seen about 6MB/Sec writes, and up to 35MB/sec reads).

Similar advice also applies for CF-Cards - I could not get a Sandisk Extreme or Extreme Pro CF Card to work with two accelerators I would soon test.

I dived into SD cards today and found that the Sandisk Extreme Pro I bought is an A2, V30, UHS-3  card.  

A(x) meaning it performs random read/writes better, A2 meaning capable of 4,000 IOPS, vs A1 which is 1500 IOPS (designed for GPS maps etc), 

V30 meaning it can sustain 30MB/s writes, and UHS referring to bus speed (10MB/s or 30MB/s).  

But..the A2 and A1 denotes 10MB/s sustained writes for application performance.  Noting any speed class promises are based on sequential writes only.

That’s all very nice, so the Gigastone (supplied with the Parceiro) is a class 10, UHS-1 card, class 10 is an earlier logo of the V standard (they have changed the naming 3 times already, garrr!), it denotes sustained writes of 10MB/s.  There is no UHS 2 by the way, just UHS 1 or UHS 3.

All that though is dependent on the Host, and apparently a combination of U’s and V’s etc does not guarantee 10MB/s, only that it will read and write at some speed :). Despite all that, in theory I should be getting whopping speeds when I read or write images (using dd on my Mac) to the Sandisk Extreme/Extreme Pro - not so, I get a max of about 6MB/s, whereas the Gigastone was reading and writing at 15MB/s on the same Mac hardware!?!

So…to conclude, theoretically faster, more expensive SD Cards may in fact pose an issue (like what I have seen), not only with the Parceiro, but anything that takes an SD card under the right circumstances.  

A good SD Card should last about 10 years (really cheap cards might die after 2 years), from what I’m reading, and if writing/changing data often, one site recommended formatting every 2 or 3 weeks!  

Anyway, I have my backups, and once personalised, I’ll be doing very few writes anyway.  Backups ready for 2032 :)

Some more wisdom from David Dunklee:

"There is a program called SDWORKOUT, (and a more extensive SDWORKOUT2) that you can run from the command line.  It basically does a workout of the target file system and SD card.

When you run these programs you'll find that the limiting factor of the system is WRITE performance.  So you'll generally want to get the 'fastest' SD card which can write the FASTEST.

However, know that the Parceiro is a very simple device.  It doesn't use the proprietary SDIO 4-bit interface and doesn't know anything about the new-fangled features that allow advanced READs or WRITEs.  It uses what's called the basic, Serial Peripheral Interface or SPI.  You can think of SPI as the original PCIE version 0.  It's very basic, but essentially allows you to talk to devices on a very fast (for '90's technology) interface.
...

I, too, thought that the EXTREME, 4GB Video cards would be the best, but I'm finding that the only way to use them in this capacity is with the SDIO interface.  SPI is deprecated on these devices.

...

I have a SanDisk A2 that I bought on a recent vacation. The Amiga doesn't want to boot off this one.  I do have a Samsung A2/v30 that works fine (so far)"

SDWorkout appears to also work for CF-Cards, by-the-way.  I'm using it to check through various branded/unbranded cards of 16GB and 32GB.

If you are interested in more information on SD Cards, I found a PDF I really like on the Farnell site here.

Cleaning up MacOSX droppings:

% sudo dot_clean /volumes/GOTEK

Password:


Failed trying to change dir to .Spotlight-V100

Bad Pathname: Operation not permitted

Failed trying to change dir to .Trashes

Bad Pathname: Operation not permitted

Failed trying to change dir to .TemporaryItems

Bad Pathname: Operation not permitted



Or I recently came across CleanEject - which does the job for you, worth checking out.


Thursday, December 22, 2022

Amiga 1000 Restoration part 2: Parceiro, the CIA, joysticks and Boot Colour Codes!

 G'day everyone, this blog is my journey and experience with purchasing and restoring my favourite computer of all time, the Amiga 1000, and hopefully will help other people in their journey too.  My experience would see parts delivered from 9 different countries across the globe, and has been 4 months in the making.

Disclaimer: There is no sponsorship or payment in kind, and all comments are my own experience / opinions unless stated otherwise.  I am a private individual member of the public, I am not a business, nor am I representing any business.  This blog is not to be taken or used as advice or instruction, replicate at your own risk.  I have destroyed 1 x accelerators, 1 x GOTEK drive, and possibly 1 x Amiga 1000 (at time of writing) in my adventure so far 😅

Practice Session:

After scouring through PCBWay, and all the warnings about Electro-Static-Discharge shocks killing CIA chips (8520's), I came across an interesting mod for ESD protection.  If you are planning any SMD work, do yourself a favour and purchase a video microscope and an SMD tweezer kit, pliers are too big, and the microscope is essential to see what you are doing.

Great practice, a large few grains of sand?

The finished product

Installed on the Amiga 1000, but not a good fit

After building the board, it sits over the top of the existing DB9 pins for the mouse and joystick.  However, it does not sit well, even after heating up the solder.  I found my mouse and Joystick did not work with his mod, and removed them.  Once removed, the mouse and joystick worked fine again.  The practice however was great preparation for working on the Amiga 1000 mainboard as what before seemed tight, was now ample space to work within.

In hindsight, maybe I could have desoldered the DB9's to ensure the maximum pin-length was available for the ESD board to sit on and maybe I would have a better connection.

I also ordered some Amiga themed coasters, which were far more successful.  If you are a builder/tinkerer, check out PCBWay's Amiga projects.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

Joystick or Woestick?

Anyway, after taking the ESD mod (above) off, I was still having bizarre problems with a Wico 'Command Control' joystick I had also purchased on eBay.  The joystick would permanently move to left, unless I pushed the joystick to move right, then it would stop!  

So much for the 'testing' promised in the advert (my advice, beware of all Amiga eBay purchases.  Amiga has become so lucrative, people will sell any rubbish at ridiculous prices, ignore all promises of 'working' and expect everything to be faulty at the outset and needing repair).  Anything labelled as untested or 'was working' is almost a guarantee that it is no longer working.


Wico "Command Control" after a thorough cleaning...it too arrived filthy from eBay.

At the same time, this was when I was having problems with the Amiga still not booting, and giving me a black screen.  This was resolved with replacing my EVEN CIA chip.  See below for more on this.  But my joystick problems remained.

I really doubted there was a problem with the joystick as they are such simple devices, just a few switches and wiring.  Further assistance sought from Mr. Dunklee:

The Joy/Mouse movements are multiplexed by a device at U1T (PAL Motherboards) or U1M (NTSC Motherboards), the 74LS157, and then sent to the DENISE.  The 8520’s only control button presses.  The orthogonal movements are not traditional ON/OFF (+5V, 0V).  They’re state changes multiplexed by the 74LS157.  I suspect that’s why the ESD didn’t work as the ESD is likely filtering out the very changes needed.  You should be able to trace the lines from the ports to the U1T device (they go through a network of caps/resistors).  I’d connect the joystick to the port and then test if the inputs are working to the U1T (in other words… check resistance between the pin on the port and the pin on the chip… should be 220 Ohms if I’m reading the schematic right.  If you get infinite or well beyond 220Ohms, then there’s the problem.  Here’s a schematic… this is for the NTSC Amiga and thus the chip/resistor/cap naming is all off for PAL boards… but it’s still the same logic… especially around the joystick area… So… for example you should be able to check if you get a signal from the Left Joystick (0) pin 1 (Forward0) to pin 3 on the 74LS157 (Your U1T)… repeat for the other 7 signals.  If you don’t get input/continuity from one of these signals… the flaw is somewhere between the two points.  If not… the flaw is between the 74LS157 and the Denise…

 

image005.jpg


So I went about removing 74LS157 at U1T, you can find more about this chip here.  


Use LOTS of flux!  Go ahead, add another dollop.

Target Acquired: 74LS157 at U1T

Removing anything from the Amiga 1000 mainboard is really tough.  These are old-school 4 layer boards, it takes a long time and a lot of heat to get solder to flow.  You cannot use enough flux!!  It took me maybe 2 hours to remove this one little chip.  And even then to clean up the holes, I committed a cardinal sin and used a needle thin micro-drill bit along with my soldering iron to clean out the hole.  The soldering iron heated up the solder, while I pushed though with the micro-drill.


NEVER EVER DO THIS!!  This was careless and reckless in hindsight!  There is a small copper sleeve that connects planes of these 4 layer boards, and if I had damaged that, the board would have been stuffed - likely beyond repair!


Just call me 'The Butcher'

Close-up of my butchering

I lost some solder pads in the process, but was very lucky it still worked when solder was re-applied.

I used a socket to make re-inserting the new IC easier, however this was a mistake as the chip then sits too high and interferes with the floppy drive spinning!!  

As I did not want to de-solder again, I replaced my floppy drive with a. GOTEK drive using the HxC firmware and hardware mod to display floppy images on-screen, removing the need for an OLED/LED to hang out the floppy drive slot, and no need for any new holes in the case.  

Socket added, IC replaced with a new 74LS157

Looks even better when the flux is all cleaned away using IPA/Isoproply


While that was fun, and a good heads-up/practice for what was coming when I perform the Parceiro ROM mod, it did not fix my joystick problems, aghhhh!

This left troubleshooting to the joystick and cable as the problem.  I had already tested the leaf-switches in the joystick with the continuity setting on my multimeter.  They all connected fine when activated and the multimeter buzzed appropriately.  


I would check I had continuity after connecting each wire.  I really went about this "the hard way" and after 3 unsuccessful attempts at fixing the cable, I purchased a new cable off eBay (which I should have done from the start and saved myself not only $$, but time too.  Still, the learning was worth it).


After cutting the cable, I was trying to join wires and insulate them again with heat-shrink wrap.


My first attempts failed due to incorrect wiring, and using the wrong DB9 connector - the kind you buy at your electronics store won't fit into the Amiga 1000 DB9 port correctly and keep popping out.  They need to be lighter, with longer end-connectors.  In other words, buy a proper replacement joystick cable!

Now I had a proper replacement cable, I removed the old cable and wired this  straight to the switch wires.

I found Michael Steil's site on pagetable helpful for working out which wires and pins connect to each other.  And since this Wico Joystick had 2 buttons, I also wired the second button to pin 9 which gave me a button 2, rather than just a boring (and unlikely to be used) alternate for Button1.


Having a second fire button is great in Turrican!  You won't go back once you have tried it!


Success!!  I have a working and improved joystick!!

What's better than owning an Amiga?  Owning two Amigas!!

During this time, another Amiga 1000 came up for sale in my country, and this one had the keyboard and mouse!  As a risk mitigation strategy, having a spare Amiga 1000 would give me peace of mind against something failing.

My regular PAL Mainboard, with my electroplated clock shield.
"Hey there Ms. Looking-So-Good!!"

I could harvest parts from a spare Amiga, especially the Agnus (8367R0) chip. Replacing the Agnus in an Amiga 1000, would mean buying buying another Amiga 1000 anyway (I am yet to see an Agnus 8367 come up for sale, plenty of the later versions used in the A500's etc which is the fat Agnus, 8370 and 837x series, but the A500 used a PLCC (fat), not DIP (thin) package and PLCC will not fit in the A1000).  This is the same reason we are limited to 512KB Chip RAM, our thin Agnus can not address above 512KB.  To-date there is no way around this on an Amiga 1000.

I liked this wikiwand description of Agnus.

I am really hoping an FPGA solution is invented to replace our thin Agnus one day, and maybe even lift our 512KB chip-ram limit finally.  With my 2nd Amiga 1000, I could now select the best components from each Amiga to build the best one from the two, and if they both worked I have a test machine to help troubleshooting with.  Well, that's what I used to convince myself to buy another Amiga 😎

It turned out, the second Amiga was one of the rare daughterboard PAL Amiga 1000's!  Woohoo!  Not an exact replacement for my PAL Amiga 1000, but perhaps even better!  This daughterboard Amiga I would keep as close to stock as I could due to its rarity (and most accelerator boards will not fit in it anyway as the daughterboard is in the way).  



Daughterboard PAL  Amiga's were only sold for the first few months of the Amiga 1000 release and are considered rare.  The daughterboard Amiga's are actually a modified NTSC Amiga.  The RCA Video out is still marked as NTSC on the mainboard silkscreen.

I did perform the Parceiro Kickstart mod...It's a quality of life improvement.  The mod to enable the Kickstart feature of the Parceiro II looked easier to perform on the Amiga with the daughterboard, so I started there.

My Parceiro arrived, I was very excited, and would not be disappointed!  The current Parceiro provides 3 kickstart ROM Banks, and one kickstart-ROM-disabled bank so you can still use a Kickstart disk if you choose/need; also:
  • a Real-Time-Clock 
  • 8MB FastRAM
  • and a bootable SD-Card Hard Drive (32GB, but the image only needs 16GB).  
The Parceiro also comes with software to load kickstarts and to format your SD Card for the Amiga (including both MBR and RDB so you can boot your Amiga, and at the same time have a partition formatted as FAT to enable very easy sharing/copying of files over with your Mac or PC.  The ROM-Banks and the FAT partition are life-changing must-haves, you will never go back!

The Parceiro is essential for any Amiga 1000 owner.  The ability to not need a kickstart disk is life-changing, and everything else it comes with, is just the AWESOME in awesome-sauce!  David is still making them, and working on the next model, which he also offers upgrades to existing owners - the guy needs a sainthood!!

To top it off, the install instructions are really top notch!  The soldering work needs some basic soldering skills and at least some experience.  The right tools make all the difference here!

The super-fast SRAM FastRAM used gives your Amiga a slight performance boost, just by plugging The Parceiro into the Amiga 1000's side expansion!   

I also ordered a 68010 with mine for just a tiny bit more pep and to use the quit key with WHDLoad/JST, which a stock 68k sometimes needs a reboot for.  David Dunklee's comment on this:

"As for differences between a 68000 and 68010... the primary difference is:
  1. Movable vector base on the 68010 (to allow for virtual memory management)
  2. The requirement to be in Supervisor mode to move the condition code registers from the stack (again, a condition for memory management).
  3. A 6-byte instruction cache which makes specific loops twice as fast.
  4. Improvements in the multiply and divide microcode that, again, make these instructions faster. (But the results remain the same)."
All this enhancement also works in Workbench 1.3 too!  The Parceiro is a rare upgrade that has been designed with Workbench 1.3 in mind, but also works with Kickstart 2, 3, 3.1 and Kickstart 3.2.1 and now, I could not use the Amiga without it!!  Flawless perfection. 

SysInfo speed test with 68k CPU and Parceiro

SysInfo speed test with 68010 CPU and Parceiro

SysInfo Drive speed test with 68010 CPU and testing the Parceiro SD-Card

With a 68000 CPU, I was seeing Drive speed tests from the Parceiro of around 400KB/sec, and with the 68010 CPU about 100KB faster at around 500KB/sec.  That's a whole lot faster than the Amiga floppy drive which transmits data at about the same speed as a 9600 baud MODEM (about 0.96KB/sec for you kids reading this)!!

To get one, contact Mr. Dunklee via email at:  amiga.parceiro@outlook.com

For info, check out my previous post, or check The Parceiro or The Amiga 1000 Parceiro  or MrLurch on YouTube

Parceiro II, GALs, and the wire

This is a really well made unit!

The silkscreen names are gold-topping on an already awesome product!  Take the time to read them, and enjoy!


Modding for the Parceiro ROM feature:

This mod requires adding a single wire and the replacement of two PAL chips (not the video standard, in this context, PAL stands for Programmable Array Logic) with two GAL (Generic Array Logic) chips.  s100computers advises: 

"GALs combine CMOS and electrically erasable (E2) floating gate technology to yield a high-speed, low-power logic device, they essentially replaced PAL's over time".

David Dunklee supplies high quality DIP Sockets and the pre-programmed GALs with the purchase of the Parceiro 2.  If you have a programmer, you can also program your own.  At the time that I purchased my Parceiro (~September 2022), David was supplying a pair of Mill-Max 115-47-320-41-001000 20-pin sockets for the PAL mod.  

"...They’re the best in my humble opinion.  I also use GAL16V8s instead of PALs 16L8s.  Do you have the ability to burn your own PALs/GALs?  Maybe you have a TL866II programmer?" - David Dunklee 2022.

With my recent 74LS157 replacment experience, and subsequent purchase of an SMD re-soldering station I was ready to start something I never had the courage (or time) to do until now.

Another disclaimer:  These are not a replacement for David Dunklee's instructions, you must use his instructions!  This might help you on your journey, or in a moment of hopelessness - all is not lost, and a good night sleep often just made things work the next day (I have Mr Dunklee to thank for that advice, which was proven true many times on this project).

Step1: Remove the daughterboard.  There are three screws, and then carefully wiggle it up and off the many extra-long pins the daughterboard sits on and connects to the mainboard with.  If you have the more common single-mainboard PAL Amiga 1000, you don't have to worry about this, yippeee!



Safely removed, the underside of the daughterboard

The mainboard hidden under the daughterboard

Step2: Using heat resistant tape to protect IC components (DAUGEN, DAUGCAS) around the area I would be working on.


Purchasing something to hold the PCB while working on it does make life easier, especially when you have a hot-air gun in one hand, and pliers in the other trying to extract the chips!


Rather than repeating all this again, here is the single-board Amiga all prepared for the same modification and chip extraction, note the two chips to be replaced are not as conveniently located near one-another as they are on the daughterboard.  Take your time, landmark them with a marker-pen so they are easier to find once you look away:

Regular PAL Amiga 1000 Mainboard

You can't apply too much flux, go ahead and add more!

Step3: It took me about 6 hours to extract each chip.  Heating with the hot-air-gun set to 390 degrees celsius, and the soldering iron set to 350 degrees celsius.  I would swap between using the soldering iron and desoldering-wick and a solder sucker, and then using the hot-air station while gripping the IC with a set of pliers and somewhere between gently and firmly pulling on the chip.  I'm sure there is a better technique, this was my first time.  Oh and lots and lots of flux!!

I really envy the folks that have those de-solder guns!  It looks infinitely easier than my Neanderthal technique!  And so much safer for the Amiga 1000!!   I can't find one locally, but it's on my list now for an online order in 2023!


Slowly the chip loosened and eventually came free!  I could then use the solder wick again to clean-up the holes, ready to replace with a socket.  The first chip I removed, was again a butcher job:

Sometimes, the love is too much....

I got better as I went, and extracted the other chips without damage.  The first one was hardest because I did not know what to expect or if I was doing it right...we're still talking about extracting IC's right?

New and shiny...Hey! Something is missing....
 
Hang on just a minute...Notice anything missing just above the DAUGEN socket?  

Lesson learned - do NOT use the hot-air on the component/chip side of the mainboard!!  I disintegrated...  No.  I totally blew out of existence, a capacitor.  Even with the heat-deflecting tape (the hot air was escaping under the tape).

Actually the capacitor in front of it was broken too, but luckily both were easily replaced with a ceramic 0.1uF capacitor (Thanks again for Mr Dunklee's advice while I had a small panic).  I could not find the in-line type of capacitor, but that didn't matter, I just needed the right value in a ceramic cap.  

Unlike electrolytic capacitors, ceramic capacitors don't leak and usually do not ever need replacing, unless they are murdered by a sadistic, hot-air-gun wielding, maniac butcher....

Replaced the two capacitors I exterminated previously...

And then, the new GALs:



Step4: Just one more step now, the wire.

This was tricky, it is a very small spot to connect too, but I also discovered at this time, solder-paste!!  Solder paste is once-again, life-changing!!

You take a tiny amount with your tweezers or the tip of a scalpel knife, and place it around your component.  It comes out of the tube with the viscosity of toothpaste, but do not try brushing your teeth with it.  Please don't!

Place the wire, next to the component/solder point, and into the paste, stick your soldering iron into the paste, next to the components and in seconds the paste 'bubbles', creates tiny solder balls, which quickly melt and flow around the joint.  So much faster than traditional solder, so much cleaner and easier!!

To clean up, use IPA / Iaspropyl and a toothbrush.  Dry off and admire your magnificent work!

The first solder point done

All three solder-points done, and a spot of hot-glue  at each point for extra  protection (not required, I just have a thing for hot-glue)

And do it again, on the single mainboard PAL Amiga 1000

This one was a little more tricky, but with patience and zen calm, its easy

And the finished product.  Whoop! Whoop!

You could just use straight lines and minimise noise, but it's not a signal line (not carrying data) so noise does not matter.  The right-angles made it easier for me to find the right solder-points, and is closer match to the instructions that come with the Parceiro.

Single mainboard PAL Amiga 1000 done

Now that it is done, it looks easy....PAL Amiga 1000, single mainboard version

Zoom out on the single mainboard PAL Amiga 1000

The soldering of this 'one wire' took me about half a day, a day in total for both Amiga's - patience and a calm mind helped get it right.  They are very small points to solder to, not as small as SMD, but not a lot of room for error or spills.  That solder paste and lots of flux really helped.

Again, David Dunklee's instructions are very good, plus David was very generous with his time on email to help hold my hand through.  I can not thank Mr David Dunklee enough, and it was worth every minute!!  Wot?  I'm not crying...I just have dust in my eyes....😜

Finally, I could put the Amiga's back together for the first time in a couple months now!!



At the peak of euphoria, and anticipation I put them all back together and switched them...to....nothing...Oh-no!!

I thought for a while I had destroyed two Amiga's..all that time and then money blown that would need to be explained to the CEO (my wife) at some point....."Yes dear, you are right.  I love you?"

Drama, drama...like David has reminded me many times, I just needed to go to sleep!

A1000 Boot Chime, Blown CIA's and Shielding Shorts:

As mentioned in my previous post, I was getting the startup-chime (side note, the startup chime is based on composer Richard Wagner's, Ring cycle): 

Image courtesy of The Amiga Guru Book (Taunusstein, 1993);

More on the A1000 Boot chime from The Amiga Guru Book (Taunusstein, 1993);:

In the boot ROM of the Amiga 1000, the concluding diagnostic performed is an audio test in the form of a short melody. This consists (more or less) of the Horn Motif from Richard Wagner's "Siegfried", the third part of the "Ring des Nibelungen", transposed four half-tones down (cf. [36, page 29]). The tones are output in sine form (64 samples) over various channels (cf. table 9.2).

According to Robert Peck, the diagnostic.routines of the boot ROM were written by a man called Siegfried "Dusty" Bleher.

Image courtesy of The Amiga Guru Book (Taunusstein, 1993);


But my floppy drive was not activating (and no kickstart screen). As this blog entry is already so long, here is the short version:

This was a dead CIA 8520 EVEN chip (U6S on my PAL Amiga, U6N on an NTSC Amiga), which once replaced fixed that issue. The ODD/EVEN chip designations I found in the Phoenix Manual on amiga-storage.net.

CIA Chips, ODD is the one closest to the CPU, at the bottom on this pic

Through this I learnt that the CIA (8520) chips, Denise (8362 R6, or if you have the R5 version - Daphne) and Paula (8364) can be replaced with the same chips found on an A500 or A2000.  Easy to find on eBay too, but check prices carefully as there are some jokers living a fantasy and asking hundred of dollars.

Another side note: a good interview with Glenn Keller, the inventor of the Paula chip can be found here.

The girls

I also learnt a lot more about the screen colour codes that come up at boot time.  From this list, I have now personally 'enjoyed' the experience of Grey, Black, Red, Yellow, White, Blue and Purple boots.  Just Green to collect now.

The point here is, don't panic or be alarmed!  I too had to calm-the-farm and take it one step at a time, and often the next day.  I made so many mistakes due to long hours and late nights rather than just stopping.  It's not the destination, it's the journey, and there is always another destination after this one 😆

The black screen was fixed with replacing the CIA chip and then later I found my Shielding was shorting the Amiga somewhere.  Whenever I took the lid off for testing, it worked, put the lid back on - black screen.  Ha!  What a tease!  While I never found the exact cause, taking it all apart and then reseating everything fixed that issue.

The CIA (8520) chips are identical and interchangeable.  A common test is to swap each chip into the other socket, if the Amiga boots - you have found your faulty CIA chip.  CIA chips are prone to electrostatic damage (which is usually from plugging/unplugging peripherals like joysticks, but anything from any port) while the computer is turned on.  SO, what do the two chips do?

  • 'Even' U6S (PAL) U6N (NTSC) CIA manages the floppy drive, serial, and some parallel port status
  • 'Odd' U6T (PAL), U6P (NTSC) CIA manages the parallel port, keyboard, some support for floppy drive, and joystick/mouse button number one (Button 2 is read directly from pin 9 of the DB9 Joystick/Mouse port).

The other issues were either a chip not seated correctly, or I had not switched the ROM-bank on the Parceiro correctly into position.  It took some time, but easily fixed.  For easy reference to anyone reading this blog for help, here are the colour codes:

Boot Colour Codes from Classic Amiga Wiki
  • Red - An error in the Kickstart rom as detected.
  • Green - An error in the Chip Ram was detected.
  • Blue - An error in the custom chip set was detected.
  • Yellow - The CPU encountered an error before the system's error-trapping code (the code the calls up the Guru) was in place.
  • Black - No CPU detected
  • Grey - CPU Passed the test
  • White - CPU failure
  • Purple - Kickstart ROM error - Parceiro ROM switch not positioned on a ROM bank correctly, or set to no ROM when using an '030 accelerator (I've tested with a TerribleFire 536 and a 68030-TK2 - more on those in a later blog)

Or check out the code definitions on amigalove.com here.
Or the Colour codes and Guru codes on LemonAmiga here

Further explanation from the "The Amiga Guru" :

The color codes in the event of failure:
turquoise (RGB==$OCC) - RAM failure in the Kickstart WCS (AlOOO only).

green (RGB==$OFO; pre-2.0: RGB==$OCO) ~ error in the lowest 256 kilobytes of Chip memory. This might also be caused by a defective CIA-A (memory overlay bit, for example) or Agnus chip.

yellow (RGB==$FE5; pre-2.0: RGB==$CCO) - an unexpected processor exceptionoc- curred during the initialization of the system, i.e. before the Guru was prepared. This color code can, by the way, also occur if the reset routine is entered from outside the supervisor mode (e.g. by a direct jump). On the A3000, this may be an indicator of defective hardware, as accessing "nonexistent" memory (or faulty hardware) may result in a bus-error exception.

red (RGB==$FOO) - invalid Kickstart ROM checksum (Kickstart 2.0 only, cf. sec- tion 9.2.3).

magenta (RGB==$FOF) - if the single-task (RTF_SINGLETASK) or cold-start (RTF_- COLDSTART) initialization through InitCode() has failed (Kickstart 2.0 only).


Enough again, next blog entry will look at the SD-Card, partitions, making backups and why HD ToolBox won't get you what you need (you must use SD Toolbox, supplied with the Parceiro).

Recapping a PAL Amiga 1000

 Hi Again, Since I suspected I had issues with reliable and stable power, I took the plunge to recap my PAL Amiga 1000 (no piggyback), and p...